Isla Taboga

For such a small island, a lot of things have happened on Taboga. Its recorded history begins on a sad note: In 1515, Spanish soldiers landed on the island and proceeded to kill and enslave the Indians. Not an uncommon thing in those days. Then the English came and killed some of the Spanish. They returned several times, and there was more bloodshed. Then the English returned, in peace, to establish a base for a steamship company. Then the French came to build a retreat for their canal workers. And then the Americans came, one of them being me. In the Canal Zone days, Taboga Island was a great place to spend a free day. It's about ten miles from the Pacific entrance to the Canal.

Much time had passed since my last visit to Taboga, and on this past trip to Panama it was time to return.

Years ago the boat departed from Balboa, and now it departs from Naos Island at old Fort Amador. We had some time to spare before leaving, so I took a short walk to the site of a coastal artillery battery. Several batteries are tucked away here and there around both entrances to the Canal. The concrete storage rooms of Battery Buell are now being used by the Smithsonian Tropical Research Institute. (Note: These batteries were named after Civil War generals.)

Artillery at this site once defended the Pacific entrance to the Canal.

We boarded the boat and were on our way to Taboga.

Looking back to Panama City.

Arrival at Taboga.

I did not recognize any of the buildings on Taboga. What remained from years ago, the passage of time had erased any memory of them. When I looked at the old church, it was as if I was seeing it for the first time, although I had seen it before. I know Taboga has grown over the years, but I could not remember how big it once was.

The old church on Taboga.

We visited a bit with some of my wife's relatives who live on the island. My wife in her youth would spend part of her school break with these relatives.

We then walked to the house where my wife's grandfather had lived. A sign on the house stated that it was the birthplace of Rogelio Sinan, a noted Panamanian writer. My wife said she is related to Rogelio Sinan, but she does not know the exact lineage.

My wife's grandfather's house on Taboga.

In 1920, the United States exercised its treaty rights and took control of parts of Taboga Island for the defense of the Canal. Residents of Taboga Island protested this seizure. The island has erected a sign commemorating their actions, and it includes the names of some of my wife's relatives. This was all news to her.

Reading family history.

We then walked to the Taboga graveyard. My memory had the graveyard right in the middle of town, but it was on the outskirts. The graveyard is in terrible shape: weeds were everywhere, tombs were falling apart, and headstones were broken. My wife has relatives buried here, but she is not sure where the plots are.

Poking around Taboga Cemetery.

I didn't forget everything about Taboga. I remembered the cross atop the hill, and I hiked alone to it.

View of Taboga from the base of the cross.

From the cross, I wanted to hike to another part of the island, but rain started to fall, so it was best to return. The rocky trail was a bit slippery going downhill, but soon I was on level ground. I joined the others at the dock. A short time later we departed.

Return to Panama City.