Tuesday, June 14, 2011

Westbound Route 50 - Through Utah and the Great Basin


Business took me from California to Colorado in 2009. I drove there on Interstate 80, which largely follows the route of the pioneers, and then Interstate 25 took me down the eastern side of the Rockies to Denver. For my return trip, I decided on a more scenic route, which would take in a long section of Route 50.

Created in 1926, U.S. Route 50 extends from West Sacramento, California to Ocean City, Maryland, a distance of 3,008 miles.

After crossing the Rocky Mountains and passing through some magnificent mesa country, I connected with Route 50 at Grand Junction, Colorado.

San Rafael Reef

The highway department has thoughtfully constructed a parking area at the eastern approach to the San Rafael Swell, so that the traveler can pause and take in the large uplifted block of Navaho Sandstone called San Rafael Reef. I climbed a knoll to get a photograph. There I met geologist Ron Schott, who was taking a 360-degree Gigapan photo of the Reef.

Route 50 passing through the Reef.

I passed through the Reef and entered the Swell proper. This is a rugged and unforgiving country, and hauntingly beautiful, especially with a thunderstorm in the distance.





Route 50 exited the San Rafael Swell, and then wound around the Wasatch Plateau and the Pahvant Range. I was now at the eastern edge of the Great Basin. About thirty minutes later I pulled in to the small town of Delta, where a motel room awaited me.

After dinner, I went to a small grocery store and purchased a six-pack of Polygamy Porter. The tagline for this Utah beer is Why Have Just One? With its alcohol content of 4%, I had two.

I left Delta before dawn and headed into the Sevier Desert. I pretty much had the highway to myself. Out in the Great Basin, these long stretches of empty road can lead the mind to wander, until the pronghorn antelope are seen standing in the middle of the road. Then the brakes are applied, and the adrenaline rush follows. The antelope walk to the side of the road, and stand there bored while waiting for the vehicle to pass.

I have had this happen to me a few times.

Pronghorn Antelope in the Sevier Desert.

The Confusion Range.

I crossed the Confusion Range and entered Nevada. The stretch of Route 50 through Nevada has been coined "The Loneliest Road in America."

And it certainly can be lonely. One can drive for miles and miles, over one mountain range and across a basin and up another mountain range and down into another basin, before passing a vehicle.

Fallon Naval Air Station was conducting a war exercise this day. I saw some inflatable targets off the road in Edwards Creek Valley, and took the photos below. I stopped for a break at the ruins of the Cold Springs Pony Express Station. A military truck with an inflatable target pulled in. I inquired of the driver, a Civil Service employee, about the exercise. He said the inflatable targets are moved to different locations for the pilots to find.




At Labou Flat and Fairview Valley I was treated to a nice airshow. A fighter jet streaked low across the highway. A missile was fired skyward, to simulate an anti-aircraft attack. The jet then dropped a bomb on a distant target.

I stopped at the side of the road to watch more. I was not the only spectator, for a few more vehicles were stopped far down the road.

The military treated us to a few more bombing runs. A jet would fly across Route 50, a missile would be fired in its direction, and then the jet would drop a bomb on a distant target. I would watch the puff of smoke grow in size, and then the boom would finally reach me.

I watched two or three of these runs, and then I resumed my drive home.


Tuesday, June 7, 2011

Biomuseo


One of my wife's relatives works at the Biomuseo being constructed on the former Fort Amador, at the Pacific entrance to the Canal. We had the opportunity to go on a tour of the site one Saturday afternoon. The museum is scheduled to open at the end of 2012.


The museum will highlight Panama's natural history, starting from the creation of the Panama land bridge, which diverted the ocean currents and brought on the Ice Age. It's an impressive structure, and I look forward to another tour after its completion.


Saturday, May 28, 2011

Isla Taboga

For such a small island, a lot of things have happened on Taboga. Its recorded history begins on a sad note: In 1515, Spanish soldiers landed on the island and proceeded to kill and enslave the Indians. Not an uncommon thing in those days. Then the English came and killed some of the Spanish. They returned several times, and there was more bloodshed. Then the English returned, in peace, to establish a base for a steamship company. Then the French came to build a retreat for their canal workers. And then the Americans came, one of them being me. In the Canal Zone days, Taboga Island was a great place to spend a free day. It's about ten miles from the Pacific entrance to the Canal.

Much time had passed since my last visit to Taboga, and on this past trip to Panama it was time to return.

Years ago the boat departed from Balboa, and now it departs from Naos Island at old Fort Amador. We had some time to spare before leaving, so I took a short walk to the site of a coastal artillery battery. Several batteries are tucked away here and there around both entrances to the Canal. The concrete storage rooms of Battery Buell are now being used by the Smithsonian Tropical Research Institute. (Note: These batteries were named after Civil War generals.)

Artillery at this site once defended the Pacific entrance to the Canal.

We boarded the boat and were on our way to Taboga.

Looking back to Panama City.

Arrival at Taboga.
I did not recognize any of the buildings on Taboga. What remained from years ago, the passage of time had erased any memory of them. When I looked at the old church, it was as if I was seeing it for the first time, although I had seen it before. I know Taboga has grown over the years, but I could not remember how big it once was.

The old church on Taboga.

We visited a bit with some of my wife's relatives who live on the island. My wife in her youth would spend part of her school break with these relatives.

We then walked to the house where my wife's grandfather had lived. A sign on the house stated that it was the birthplace of Rogelio Sinan, a noted Panamanian writer. My wife said she is related to Rogelio Sinan, but she does not know the exact lineage.

My wife's grandfather's house on Taboga.

In 1920, the United States exercised its treaty rights and took control of parts of Taboga Island for the defense of the Canal. Residents of Taboga Island protested this seizure. The island has erected a sign commemorating their actions, and it includes the names of some of my wife's relatives. This was all news to her.

Reading family history.

We then walked to the Taboga graveyard. My memory had the graveyard right in the middle of town, but it was on the outskirts. The graveyard is in terrible shape: weeds were everywhere, tombs were falling apart, and headstones were broken. My wife has relatives buried here, but she is not sure where the plots are.

Poking around Taboga Cemetery.
I didn't forget everything about Taboga. I remembered the cross atop the hill, and I hiked alone to it.


View of Taboga from the base of the cross.
From the cross, I wanted to hike to another part of the island, but rain started to fall, so it was best to return. The rocky trail was a bit slippery going downhill, but soon I was on level ground. I joined the others at the dock. A short time later we departed.

Return to Panama City.

Sunday, May 22, 2011

Fort San Lorenzo


Fort San Lorenzo is far and away my favorite historical site in Panama.

Lots of bloody battles?: Check. Great subjects for photographs?: Check. Hardly anyone else around?: Check.

The Spanish built Fort San Lorenzo at great expense on a promontory at the mouth of the Chagres River, to guard the Caribbean end of the main travel route across the Isthmus. It was attacked several times, and taken a few times. Some of the cannons on the site are British.

View of Fort San Lorenzo from the site of Chagres.

Spain departed the fort in 1821. It served as prison for some years before being abandoned. During the California Gold Rush, curious travelers stopped at the town of Chagres would make their way to the ruins. With the completion of the Panama Railroad, traffic on the Chagres River was sharply reduced, and Chagres dwindled away.

The fort was within the boundaries of the Canal Zone. The United States cleared the jungle vegetation from the ruins and built a paved road to the site. Panama now includes Fort San Lorenzo in a national park.

Looking out to the Caribbean.

View up the Chagres River.

The storage rooms carved into the promontory give a respite from the blazing sun.






I could bore you to tears with Fort San Lorenzo photos, so I'll stop with these.









Thursday, May 19, 2011

Modern Ruins of Fort Sherman

Traveling between Gatun Locks and Fort San Lorenzo, one passes through the former Army base of Fort Sherman. The United States turned this real estate over to Panama under the terms of the treaty. Sadly, Panama has neglected some sections of Fort Sherman. We saw a row of houses, just a two minute walk from the white sands of the Caribbean, which were given to Panama in perfectly good condition. Rather than renting them out for a profit while figuring what to do with them in the long term, the government of Panama let them sit uninhabited and untended. The tropical climate took its toll, as did some vandals, and now the houses are so deteriorated that they must be demolished. A shame.







Gatun Locks


I have crossed Gatun Locks by vehicle many times but never once stopped for a good look at the Locks themselves. This, despite Gatun Locks being the grandest of the three original locks of the Panama Canal. (Additional locks are being built as I write this.) So, on this past trip, I made it a point to correct this matter.




Gatun Locks gets fewer visitors than Miraflores Locks. This is easily understood. Miraflores is near Panama City which has many tourists. Gatun is near Colon which is avoided at all costs. As such, Miraflores gets a grand visitors center, while Gatun gets a smaller but still respectable viewing structure. Meanwhile, poor Pedro Miguel Locks gets hardly a notice, with only two or three concrete benches behind a chain link fence provided to the intrepid traveler.

View to the Caribbean.

A ship coming in from Gatun Lake, headed to the Caribbean.

A "mule," which pulls ships through the Locks.

In the late Seventies I drove across Gatun Locks and saw one of the chambers drained of water for maintenance. That was an impressive sight. The photo I took of it does not capture the size of the chamber, so I will not post it here.

We left Gatun Locks and drove to nearby Gatun Dam. This was my first visit. Gatun Dam was once the world's largest earthen dam, and Gatun Lake once the largest artificial body of water.

An earthen section of the dam. The ships in Gatun Lake await
transit through Gatun Locks.

The concrete portion of Gatun Dam.

The dam spillway, with the Chagres River flowing to the Caribbean.

We left the dam and headed to Fort San Lorenzo. On the return trip, we had to stop and wait for a ship to transit Gatun Locks.

Ship transiting Gatun Locks.

Passing a gate as we cross a chamber.

The ship we waited for, headed to the Caribbean